Lustinblack, and all interested in 3D copy machines.
In the past you have mentioned your interest and knowledge of 3D printers.
How are you doing in this field, are you familiar with:
http://www.stratasys.com/?et_rid=504607 ... d=60655917
They are holding an online seminar, webinar on July 31, 2014
at 2:00 PM EST / 11:00 AM PST.
I am interested in the possibility of having mechanical items fabricated via 3d printing, reducing expense (or is it) time and waste from machining parts from costly oversize virgin/recycled material.
I am currently utilizing recycled UHMW plastic rods up to four inches in diameter. This being the least expensive plastic I have found to fulfill my needs. I buy it by the lineal foot and a lot of it ends up on the cutting room floor.
Any input on your part will be greatly appreciated!
Ralph
3D printing and printers
Moderator: scott
re: 3D printing and printers
Ralph,
How long are your rods? At four inches dia. it's possible the length you require will be outside the printing dimensions of the less expensive 3d printers. You would then have to print them in sections, which may or may not work, depending on what you are trying to do.
How long are your rods? At four inches dia. it's possible the length you require will be outside the printing dimensions of the less expensive 3d printers. You would then have to print them in sections, which may or may not work, depending on what you are trying to do.
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LustInBlack
- Devotee
- Posts: 1964
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:30 am
re: 3D printing and printers
Hi,
Funny that this topic just appears, I just received my second 3d printer.. I bought a Ultimaker 2, it's basically a high end "consumer/hobbyist level" 3d printer.. 3000$ USD
My thing-o-matic had a tiny build platform and was far too loud, I needed a comfortable machine, the ultimaker was the best choice..
You don't need the Ultimaker 2, you could use the ultimaker 1, which is cheaper but made of wood and consequently looks cheaper.
Keep in mind that printing in good quality takes forever.. A simple cylinder of 5 inches high, 4 inches diameter, 100% infill, would take about 4 hours at the lowest quality (0.25mm layers) or more than 30 hours at 0.1mm layer height.
It all depends on the quality of the print.
ABS is the way to go as for the choice of plastic, because PLA is simply too brittle.
I personally bought a Filabot recycler machine, and I buy ABS plastic pellet and make my own filament, it's about 10x cheaper, but it depends on the amount of printing you do (to make it worthwhile).
Funny that this topic just appears, I just received my second 3d printer.. I bought a Ultimaker 2, it's basically a high end "consumer/hobbyist level" 3d printer.. 3000$ USD
My thing-o-matic had a tiny build platform and was far too loud, I needed a comfortable machine, the ultimaker was the best choice..
You don't need the Ultimaker 2, you could use the ultimaker 1, which is cheaper but made of wood and consequently looks cheaper.
Keep in mind that printing in good quality takes forever.. A simple cylinder of 5 inches high, 4 inches diameter, 100% infill, would take about 4 hours at the lowest quality (0.25mm layers) or more than 30 hours at 0.1mm layer height.
It all depends on the quality of the print.
ABS is the way to go as for the choice of plastic, because PLA is simply too brittle.
I personally bought a Filabot recycler machine, and I buy ABS plastic pellet and make my own filament, it's about 10x cheaper, but it depends on the amount of printing you do (to make it worthwhile).
re: 3D printing and printers
Ed,
First off, thanks for the response!
I purchase the four inch diameter UHMW in four foot lengths as per shipping limits.
First I must machine it down to 4" as it comes slightly "over-sized". It is easy to machine and has a high lubricant low friction value. Which I am not sure can be duplicated in 3D process.
I center bore it for the making of bearings and with additional machining, dis-placers in my fluid drive concept. Two to three inches in length is sufficient to fulfill my needs.
A four foot piece is currently priced @ $90.35 plus UPS shipping fees. Before I am done, I will have consumed approximately 14 feet, excluding saw kerf's and lathe facing loss.
Ralph
First off, thanks for the response!
I purchase the four inch diameter UHMW in four foot lengths as per shipping limits.
First I must machine it down to 4" as it comes slightly "over-sized". It is easy to machine and has a high lubricant low friction value. Which I am not sure can be duplicated in 3D process.
I center bore it for the making of bearings and with additional machining, dis-placers in my fluid drive concept. Two to three inches in length is sufficient to fulfill my needs.
A four foot piece is currently priced @ $90.35 plus UPS shipping fees. Before I am done, I will have consumed approximately 14 feet, excluding saw kerf's and lathe facing loss.
Ralph
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LustInBlack
- Devotee
- Posts: 1964
- Joined: Thu Apr 06, 2006 10:30 am
re: 3D printing and printers
I don't think you should invest in a 3d printer if only for that.It is easy to machine and has a high lubricant low friction value. Which I am not sure can be duplicated in 3D process.
3d printing would be great if you have a need for highly customized complex parts with low sheer load.
And don't buy stratasys, unless you want a commercial machine over 100 thou, you won't have anything good in the hobbyist range (stratasys bought makerbot).
re: 3D printing and printers
LustInBlack,
As I did Ed, I thank you for the response!
Your 5 Inch by 4" size is within my requirements, but the time element is excessive, and your choice of plastic is incompatible with my needs.
I built my first proto using off the shelf ABS fittings, it does not have a low coefficient of friction, making it a poor choice for bearing use, it requires very high speed turning and cohesive buffing to obtain a sheen low in friction unless already formed, such as injection molding.
I thank you for the info, but as it stands, I am voting to stay with the UHMW.
Ralph
As I did Ed, I thank you for the response!
Your 5 Inch by 4" size is within my requirements, but the time element is excessive, and your choice of plastic is incompatible with my needs.
I built my first proto using off the shelf ABS fittings, it does not have a low coefficient of friction, making it a poor choice for bearing use, it requires very high speed turning and cohesive buffing to obtain a sheen low in friction unless already formed, such as injection molding.
I thank you for the info, but as it stands, I am voting to stay with the UHMW.
Ralph