Sorry to hear about the failed test...I've been there too many times to count.
One thing I guess I wasn't clear about...
It wasn't a test of the entire wheel using the poke mech. It was of only two weights, just to see if there were any conflicts, &c. The way I had it going, the weights were being propped up and not "collapsing".
Now I have it doing the right things, and will have to find the time to apply it on the entire wheel.
Robert (The Carpenter's Boy)
There's never time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it over again.
Sorry, but I was under the impression that you had a complete wheel ready for testing.
However, even if you only have one of its opposed pairs of weight shifting mechanisms completed and ready for testing, then, assuming that there are no mechanical connection between it and the other still missing opposed pairs in a completed wheel, if you can get that one pair to function, then the complete wheel should also function.
Best of luck and do please keep us updated on your progress...
ken
On 7/6/06, I found, in any overbalanced gravity wheel with rotation rate, ω, axle to CG distance d, and CG dip angle φ, the average vertical velocity of its drive weights is downward and given by:
".......assuming that there are no mechanical connection between it and the other still missing opposed pairs in a completed wheel, if you can get that one pair to function, then the complete wheel should also function. " Ken
I have learned that making the connection between the "first" and "last" weights, in other words, connecting them all togther, however many there are, CAUSES STILLNESS.
But, this try feels different. There is the main motion of the weights, then there are two little hidden "tricks" which hopefilly, will support continuous rotation.
I have everything mapped out now.
One mech "trick", eliminates having to poke anything. It is simpler than I first thought.
Robert (The Carpenter's Boy)
There's never time to do it right the first time, but there's always time to do it over again.
Sounds like to me you need music wire or guitar strings. Something that will not stretch or break with constant bending such as tie or bailing wire. Most hardware stores stock music wire not intended for it's name sake!
For one of my many wheel projects I needed to use cable or string. I bought a small length of very small diameter (about 1/32 inch) multi-strand steel cable. I wanted it to wrap around 1/2 inch pulleys. The cable was way too stiff. I checked fishing line from a large sporting goods store but it was too small and not strong enough. I eventually found 1/16 braided nylon/polyester string/cord from a fabric sewing store. It is very strong, very flexible and reasonably priced. This cord is braided in a tube shape and can flaten to about 0.03 inch thick. Once it is taunt it stretches very little and measures about 0.05 diameter. I highly recommend it for use in wheels. I found that I could crimp a standard electrical eye terminal lug on the cord end. It was as strong as the cord.
Need I say it? Bessler probably would have used...catgut! LOL
ken
P.S. Glad to see you're turning to some sort of pulley system, Robert. I have also recently come to the conclusion that this method of force redirection is the prefererred one for a gravity driven device.
On 7/6/06, I found, in any overbalanced gravity wheel with rotation rate, ω, axle to CG distance d, and CG dip angle φ, the average vertical velocity of its drive weights is downward and given by:
No I can not explain why it would be better, other than cost.
Sixteen strands totaling 1/32" is .03125 ,that divided by sixteen means each strand is only .001953125 in diameter. Are you building a wheel or a Star Treck Nano probe? :-)
Guys,
A 1/32 diameter cable with 19 strands uses wires that are about 0.0065 diameter. They are bundled 6 wire around one wire in the center, then 12 wires around the outside. So the whole cable is 5 wires thick from side to side, but consisting of 19 strands.
I tried using 1/32 7 strand wire and it would only bend about 1 inch diameter. Even at 2 inch pulley diamter it acted like a spring under tension. It had a breaking strength of 210 pounds. The nylon/polyester string has a breaking strength of about 350 pounds IIRC. And it bent 180 degrees flat with no problem. So I got more strength with less resistance.
This is what is known as the "lay" in a line. The lay is how tight a line will bend around a circular object such as a pulley sheeve. If the line is not relaxing and laying with in the radius thus causing friction, then you have the wrong type or size of line, or to small of a pulley.
With a stranded rope or cable one must also consicer the direction of the lay in the line, such as tying up a boat using a figure eight hitch. You will find that it is easier to bend one way than the other.
