Hi guys,
Maybe some of you can advise me, I have a slightly under 4' plywood wheel I prefer that over MDF, because it being lighter, and accessories seem to attach firmer and better. It is supported on a 1/2" threaded bar and centered between two 1/2" bore heavy duty pillow block ball bearings with sufficiant room so I can tighten the wheel on both sides with a oversized washer and nut (I am sure the bearings are overkill) but thats what I had laying around. I eliminated the dust seals and removed the packing grease and replaced it with light lubricant! It turns nicely but probably not good enough and maybe should be exchanged with a lighter and more efficient bearing. Any better suggestions of what I should use? I guess we're all trying to improvise, and make do of what we got laying around, but I suppose that should be avoided, especially when the right parts and materials are available! (J. Bessler never had it this good) Any input is sincerely appreciated! The total weight will probably be 20-25 lbs.
Thanks in advance guys
SJW
The Right Bearings?
Moderator: scott
re: The Right Bearings?
IMO for getting a running wheel, and you have to use such soft bearings for ease of spinning it wouldn't have any power. So with regular bearings with the grease covers in place should be fine, if you get a runner with any power. But to test I don't see any problem if you want to go light.
"Our education can be the limitation to our imagination, and our dreams"
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Old and future wheel videos
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Alan
So With out a dream, there is no vision.
Old and future wheel videos
https://www.youtube.com/user/ABthehammer/videos
Alan
re: The Right Bearings?
thanks alan for the advise on the bearing usage
sjw
sjw
re: The Right Bearings?
SJW,
I agree with Alan, I do not consider a 1/2" axle and pillow block bearings over-kill. Problem is there are many suppliers of such bearings covering a large spread in price and quality. Some turn easy while others may be so tight you can not turn them in your hands. Only you know what you have.
For precision balancing I set my axle in temporally attached over size bushings and let the axle/wheel seek its keel.
If you wish to go lighter and drop to a 3/8" axle, which I do not recommend for a 4' wheel. Ace hardware is the place to head. They stock a 3/8" X 1-1/8" flange bearing for less than $3.00. They also have 1-1/8" hole saw that leaves a bore the bearings will friction fit into. Once again it is wise to check the friction before purchasing.
Nappa Auto Parts stores carry a split stamped flange bearing that you can mount with carriage bolts. The quality is good and they are more pleasing to the eye than the common cast pillow block.
Ralph
I agree with Alan, I do not consider a 1/2" axle and pillow block bearings over-kill. Problem is there are many suppliers of such bearings covering a large spread in price and quality. Some turn easy while others may be so tight you can not turn them in your hands. Only you know what you have.
For precision balancing I set my axle in temporally attached over size bushings and let the axle/wheel seek its keel.
If you wish to go lighter and drop to a 3/8" axle, which I do not recommend for a 4' wheel. Ace hardware is the place to head. They stock a 3/8" X 1-1/8" flange bearing for less than $3.00. They also have 1-1/8" hole saw that leaves a bore the bearings will friction fit into. Once again it is wise to check the friction before purchasing.
Nappa Auto Parts stores carry a split stamped flange bearing that you can mount with carriage bolts. The quality is good and they are more pleasing to the eye than the common cast pillow block.
Ralph