A Motion Machine

[Shawn7363]

Rasselasss, sorry for the confusion.

I was only asking a question about the oval side compared to the straight side, as to the speed of the ball(both sides should be the same, right?). I think the oval side would give you more speed in your build. I didn't know if you were looking for extra speed or not.

If it does carry more acceleration, it would also give you more force on your springs(hey, I am learning!).

If this does not work, let me know, so I can put it on the non-working list.

Just an idea.

Shawn

[rasselasss]

Shawn thanks for your imput, what i've achieved is just constant motion the speed to me is unimportant.....the width of the see-saw and the weights of the balls on the mech.i reckon shouuld give me what is needed......remember the see-saw at each end only requires minimal movement for motion its an easy build (as an example a figure of say 1/8 of an inch which would not be practical but none the less will give motion when reset takes place)..my only problem is what way to connect to drive a wheel...i have a few ideas,as yet undecided...Good Luck.

[Shawn7363]

Rasselasss, One side of the wheel can be stationary, attach it on that side.

I would mount it right above and as close to the axle as possible, but closer to the right if clockwise or closer to the left if counter clockwise, for driving the wheel only on one side.

Center it with relation to the axle to try and drive from both sides

The drawing I made has hinged boards attached to the outer rim of the wheel. The hinges can bend out of the way to pass the seesaw and straighten for the hit. Maybe if the timing was perfected and the seesaw put out enough force, it could work.

I dont know why, but I keep second guessing myself on this. Anyway , those are my thoughts right now and are subject to change :)


Shawn

p.s.(off subject)

I see you live in Northern Ireland, Are the Molly Maguires still active over there? The only reason I ask is, Jack Kehoe is a big name around here.

[Tarsier79]

rass, your see-saw could also be made by weighted levers moving in the Z direction.

What is your theory on what resets your see-saw, and how you intend to extract energy from it?

[rasselasss]

Again Shawn,thanks for your time and imput which has got merit,simplicity and not complication is the way to go.....join in on the fun and have a go building ,i guarantee you'll be hooked.......we are all on a learning curve here .....truthfully i now nothing of the m.m.'s , their history or if they still exist.Good Luck

[rasselasss]

Tarsier 79,the largest good quality loose ball bearings i can get "off the shelf" are S.K.F. 5 inch diameter ,i don't know the weight,the reset/tip whatever of my model made from a 12 inch plastic rule to the spec. posted in an earlier blog resets itself believe it or not i believe due to the flex effect of the plastic(5/8 inch ball bearings)i 'm still trying to work out the drive to the wheel,the size of the wheel ,the length/breadth and the up/down/stroke movement of the see-saw.......i'm satisfied with the see-saw as it is...so at the moment i'm at an impasse.....GoodLuck.

[rasselasss]

Tarsier,on re-reading your question possibly my answer did not relate,the re-set on say a 2-6 inch stroke which i cannot determine until size of wheel etc.will be easy....the energy will be from the movement of the run of the balls at each end )but i know it will deliver to turn a heavy wheel and do work .Good Luck

[daanopperman]

rasselasss ,

Take a look at this drawing , you might find it useful . The one is of a Desagulier balance , 2x , one on each side of a see saw . The other is much the same as what you are doing , but the path is curved so the weights never loose height , this way you may go much deeper into the power stroke of the drop. In the 2nd drawing the ball is moved from side to side on the curved path by the pendulum , as the ball passes the fulcrum of the see saw the side arm will kick on the pendulum rod .

[rasselasss]

Daan,i find that really interesting...Thanks......did you read the wilki on organs link i 'm curious how the 3rd cent.greeks got air pressure from water pressure ....i can't figure it out.

[daanopperman]

rasselasss ,
Sorry for the late reply
Yes I read the link , most impressive , it is hard to imagin the people we think of as cave dwellers could do something that still awe us today . Imagin what they would have done with Autodesk , 3D printing and the WWW .

About the water to air pressure , there must have at least been hundreds of ways to get air pressure from water pressure . For me the simplest way would be to place a polystyrene cup with a hole in the bottom and some around the rim upside down in a waterproof container and put something heave on the cup so it would not rise if water was poured into the container . By filling the container with water air will start to flow out of the hole in the bottom ( now on top ) of the cup . This way you can also control the pressure inside the cup by placing a certain weight on the cup , so it will rise until the pressure from under will equalize the weight on top , even if you let air out the pressure should stay the same till the last bubble .

If you like to read more , Ctesibius of Alexandria : Hydraulis : Heron of Alexandria :
Off topic , in 16-- the Dutch was in a ship building war with the rest of the world , there was a man called Cornelis Corneliszoon , he built a wind driven sawmill , 30 x faster and much more proper than any of the rest . That gave the Dutch the edge to merchant shipping . I saw it working , whether it was restored or the original I have no clue , but the working was something to behold . The saw blades was vertical 4 abreast , working up and down , could have been 10 ft in length , 6 in broad and 1/4 in thick , ripsaw , and every where was push rods , wooden gears and cogs , pawl gears to move the wood into the saw and move the blades out of the cut on the upstroke , all adjustable for production , man I was so pissed off when the program ended and there was no micro cam shots , but any how , these people was really our masters , mentally and physically . Today , sad to say , I see it every day , Engineers will design something with all the aid available , and on the day of commissioning , they have not taken this and that into consideration , and then the changes start and never ends .

[rasselasss]

Daan,that was very informative and interesting.....Thanks

[11Turion]

If you are looking for larger steel balls, try a pinball supply or reconditioning place. I got 100 of them for free from a place that reconditions machines. They had buckets full of them. I have used them on several of my Bessler wheel experiments.

[rasselasss]

11 Turion,over here unfortunately such a place is not available,your a lucky man,i purchase from bearing retailers or e-bay whatever is cheapest...the average price of 1" b.b. is £5 plus p&p...the cheapest 5" b.b. available here is £275 each plus p&p.....so i'll stick to a model size of my idea...Good Luck.

[path_finder]

Dear rasselasss,
Just go to the next sport supermarket, and by a set of 'boules de pétanque':
http://shopping.cherchons.com/dossier/b ... -obut.html
Myself I got a set from Decathlon for 28 euros.
You can find the same here: http://www.decathlon.co.uk/competition- ... ports.html
and select: Home / Target sports / Pétanque / Competition

[rasselasss]

Path Finder,thanks for that information,i would never have thought of those places as a source of supply...Good Luck.